High heels clicking on the pavement, I walk out of Grand Central Station, up two blocks toward the 42nd Street Library, turn the corner at 5th Avenue. Dozens of people jostle for space as I cross the street. Gray buildings tunnel my vision. Street hawkers shout, “Get your fresh hot bagel.” The cacophony of sounds that is New York City–the car horns, the hot dog vendor, the guy selling bus tours, the buses heading crosstown–quicken my pulse, even though I have been making this trek from Yonkers to the city for the past three months—a mile walk from my house to the bus at the Yonkers/Bronx city line, then another bus by the Woodlawn Cemetery that took me to the NYC subway and eventually to the city.
In my high heels, nylons, white pleated skirt swishing around my knees, my brown hair in a flip, I pretend to be older than my seventeen years—more sophisticated. I hold my round white suitcase with pride—the suitcase that in 1961 in NYC says to the world, “I am a model,” or in my case hope to be one.
I remember the day my friend Donna told me she was going to go to The Barbizon School of Modeling. “You’re so attractive and thin, you should come with me,” she said. I had never thought of doing anything like that. I knew people thought I was pretty, and I saw the way boys looked at me, but I never really felt pretty. But I kept thinking of what Donna said, and my mother said it would be good for me to go.
Donna and I made the first trip together. When we got off the train at Grand Central, we were confused and disoriented–but excited. We finally found where the school was, in a super ordinary building right off of 5th Avenue. A small entryway and an equally small elevator took us up to the second floor, where a bevy of chattering girls waited. A beautiful, long-legged receptionist took our names, and we sat down and waited for the big interview.
At the orientation, the instructor explained that there are three kinds of models: full-time showroom models, seasonal models, and fashion models. The first made the least money, but had the most longevity. The latter made a lot of money, but generally had the shortest career.
Last week I graduated, and I am officially a Barbizon Girl. I am here, today, for my first “lead”—actually two—and I hope to get a summer job as a model before starting my freshman year at City College of New York in the fall.
I think about the last three months: the interview, walking across the room, past those former models observing my every movement, taking my measurements: 34-24-37. Okay, I’d have to work on that hip measurement. One inch less should do it.
One week they taught me about make-up. I sat in front of one of the big make-up mirrors with the round-bulbed lights, and seasoned models taught me the tricks of the trade. Almay. Non-allergic. All the girls sat, with their make-up cases and capes as the instructor demonstrated how to apply foundation, powder, lipstick, eye make-up. “Take care of your skin,” the instructor said, “It’s one of the tools of your trade.
Another week I learned to glide across the room as a runway model. “It’s not about you,” they told us, “it is about the clothes. You are not there to swish and sway and call attention to yourself, but to be a mannequin.” I tried to picture in my mind walking—pegged skirt, high heels—across the room, pivoting just so, as critical eyes judge my every move
Then we learned diction. Correct pronunciation. Speak slowly, carefully. Practice, practice, practice. I got little booklets each week to reinforce the lessons. Each lesson a different color: pink, blue, green. Laminated orange Barbizon cards, emblazoned with their logo in black, were marked with the lesson learned, my weight, and measurements.
Now, as I wait for the elevator, I get a secret thrill knowing that those around me know I’m a Barbizon Girl. I go upstairs with some of the other girls and collect two leads for this week. One of the leads is across from Bryant Park, just a few blocks away. Great. Down the elevator, toward Bryant Park.
I find the building, go upstairs and wait for the interview. While I wait, I scan the black-and-white sketched ads that appear in the fashion section of the New York Times—Franklin Simon, Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue. I’m called in, and there’s a young guy, dressed in black, drawing at a sketchpad. He tells me to get up on a dais in front of a wall of floor-to-ceiling windows.
“Just get up on the platform. Move around. Pretend you’re in an evening gown, dancing around and showing off, until I see something I want to sketch.”
I walk over to the platform and step up. From there I can see the traffic on 42nd Street and people in Bryant Park. I get so caught up in the view that I forget he wants me to move around.
“Okay. You can move now,” snaps me out of my reverie.
I start to move around, but feel clumsy. Awkward. I don’t know what he wants me to do, feel stupid pretending I have a gown on, but I turn this way and that, my arms up, down and around. Oh, god, I think, how am I supposed to do this? I try to imagine what those ads in the paper look like. But can’t. Who knew this is how it is done. Nothing in modeling school has prepared me for this. On the contrary, this feels like it’s more about me than the clothes.
“That’ll do,” he says abruptly. “We’ll call, if we need you.”
I know they won’t call.
I look at the other lead. Rosgren’s, 38th Street. Waist cinched, head held high, I walk to 6th Avenue, then head south. On the way, I pass a construction site and hear some wolf whistles and catcalls. “Hey, babe, what ya doin’ later?” “Va va voom.” A blush of pleasure rises to my cheeks, while I pretend to ignore them. I can’t help but smile, just a little bit.
I feel relieved to have that awful interview over. Hopefully the next one will be better.
Once I turn onto 38h Street, it is bedlam. Men pull and push racks of clothes. Some are running, some walking leisurely, one whistling. There are shouts, curses and friendly helloes. Lots of noise and congestion. The Garment District.
One guy is pulling two racks—one with each hand–with bolts of fabric in different colors and textures. If there isn’t enough room for them to get through on the sidewalk, they wheel the racks into the street. One guy is hauling a naked mannequin across the street.
Three tall women walk abreast toward me—models I’m sure, in their slim black dresses, high heels and tell-tale round cases. Guys ogle them up and down.
I check the address again—230 West 38th Street. Ooops, I was so busy looking at all the activity, I passed right by it. I double back, go in, take the elevator to Rosgren’s on the second floor. I go to the receptionist and tell her I’m here for the modeling job. No wall of windows. No real waiting room. I stand and wait.
The manager comes out. He explains that the job is for a showroom model. They make coats. Buyers from various stores come in, look at coats to purchase for their stores. I would be expected to model the coats for them, and on occasion go into the back room where the head tailor would custom fit the coats to my figure.
He asks me to try on one of the coats and walk around the showroom. Now this is more like it. This is what they taught me to do at Barbizon. This is my kind of job. I glide across the room, make a few turns, show the features of the coat—the buttons, the collar, the pockets.
“Okay,” he says, “give your information to Joyce. You can start on Monday.”
I had my first modeling job. Yippee!
As it turned out, it was my last modeling job as well. For one summer, I got a peek into the world of modeling. In truth, the best part of the job was the walk from the subway station to work each morning–in my high heels and the signature, round white suitcase.
The rest of it was pretty dull. The fittings by the older ethnic tailor who would smooth the cloth across my chest and I would pretend not to notice because I didn’t know how to handle it. The modeling in the showroom for the bored middle-aged buyers from out of town. The boredom between showings. The day-to-day world of the showroom model is less than glamorous.
It was, though, the beginning of my life-long love of New York City. I thrived on its energy and excitement. I walked through the Garment District every day and breathed in the bustle and hustle. I loved the appreciative glances—and, yes, the wolf whistles. I savored this during that summer of 1961, before the feminist movement told us that this was demeaning.
That summer, however, I basked in the much-needed attention.